Birch Tree Bonsai – Betula papyrifera Paper birch grows best in partial shade on medium to moist, sandy or rocky soils. Best in afternoon shade. It requires consistently moist soils that keep the root zones cool and moist. It needs to be trimmed a little, but can be trimmed during the sleeping period if necessary. Avoid pruning in the spring when the sap is flowing. Best in cool northern climates where summer temperatures rarely exceed 75 degrees F. and root zones are generally covered with snow all winter.
This tree was collected on a golf course in upper Michigan. In 1995, we put a trench around it to keep the core out. In 1997, this new Sarah Raynor was put into the pot. At that time I also had a tourniquet around the vein. In the same year, Ivan Vater judged our annual exhibition, his comments: “Good composition. The tree is healthy, but as a rule it does not do well as a birch bonsai. The pot is the right size for the needs of the tree, generally it is considered large. In the next pot they get a large stem. advance so that they are not parallel. Pull the top of the wire forward from the two larger stems. Reinforce the silhouette.” So that’s what I did.
Birch Tree Bonsai
By 2000, I decided to take makeup in a different direction. I put a wire on each branch and turn it into a birch. Although it looks good when connected, in nature the tree is not what you would expect. About a month after the new design, health deteriorated. Not only that, but when the wire was removed, there were no branches left.
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Struggling to get it out of the pot in 2002, I had to remove a lot of round roots and decided at that point that this tree needed to be moved every year. I didn’t find the wire going around the root, but I wasn’t worried. Two years later I made another mistake with this tree by leaving the wire too long and scarred the main branch. Additionally, the summit showed signs of decline, and Ted Matson suggested keeping the crown open to allow the sun to set.
In March of 2006, Ted and I took this tree to the workshop and began cutting the tree structure. So far I have tried very hard to remove terminal buds to encourage branch development. But the health still went down and I lost 10% of all the branches I developed. Ted suggested taking a closer look at the veins to see if something is wrong (and maybe find a tourniquet). With it I removed almost all the soil and the old roots, which were mixed with the layer of roots below. Ted says there isn’t much we can do about this old fence, but as long as the roots grow back, I haven’t had any problems. However, I should continue to transplant each year, but allow the terminal shoots to extend.
In March 2007, the tree was still falling. I was still losing 10% of the buds and lost the top. I need to see below the apex where I can find healthy tissue that can be used to prevent and treat milk loss. I used guy wires to position the branch up and in the middle to be the new top. In the early spring of 2008, the tree began to recover, healthy shoots appeared, branches did not disappear. I continued to work on restoring the roots by removing tangled roots.
In 2009, the roots were better. I started using soil supplements (see articles) and started cutting and removing terminal branches in the spring. In the years that followed, the tree really took off. I continued to develop the new top and pulled it front and center. And in August 2012, he won the first place and the Honorary Award at the State Fair Exhibition. Houston’s comments include “Traditionally a ball tree. Love the bark and size of the base, lots of character, classic bonsai based comments. Would the top look good, could use secondary branches in a few places. I like the bonsai. Overall a great job on complex types.”
Birch Bonsai Care
At a Soutine workshop at my house with Houston and Steve in June 2013, we went through them all and each of us had to pick a front. We all chose a front. So now the youngest tree in the log is the first branch (as standard). Newly styled and trimmed. Only some of the first branches are connected. Sutin thought the pot was good. Make sure that the next return (2014) will place the tree with the new foreground. Check the image again. Birch (Betula) is an excellent species used for bonsai. Birch bonsai with small leaves and mature bark can be one of the best miniature nature trees.
In this tutorial, I’ll teach you everything you need to make your Betula bonsai look amazing. (If it’s awesome, I’ll tell you how to save it!)
This is a very in-depth and detailed post, so skip to the appropriate section for now and come back as needed to read about other areas.
Like other deciduous trees, the birch is leafy and green during the growing part of the year. Their leaves turn yellow in the fall and give you a beautiful fall canopy before they shed their leaves in the winter for a winter silhouette.
The World’s Tiniest Forest
Birches are hardy and frost-resistant trees that do well in bonsai containers. They have a reputation for randomly snapping off branches, which can be a problem if we don’t prune them properly (more on that later).
Silver birch (Betula pendula) is the most common birch species for bonsai, but many other species are often used.
Birch uses many styles in the study of bonsai. This is due to the strong growth habit of the species and some peculiarities.
Like most broadleaf trees, birches can be grown as large upright informal trees. They are often found in nature as single trees with a gentle movement in the trunk.
Creating A Beech Forest Bonsai
When growing an informal straight birch, the angle of the branches is important. You can use two methods – the traditional Japanese model with the pine-like branches facing down, or the more natural method of an upward branch tower.
There is no right or wrong answer to this. It totally depends on your taste and the material you are working with. Some trees have a wild feel that matches the natural look, while others fit the beautiful Japanese aesthetic.
The important thing is that you pick one and stick to it. If your tree has branches going up the trunk and some drooping, it usually confuses the design.
There are many natural variations within birch trees and one of them is the weeping pattern. Here, the primary branches from the trunk naturally move upwards and the secondary branches descend from the primary branches.
Silver Birch Finally Wired Out
The potential for a weeping form is one of the characteristics that make the birch an excellent species for bonsai. Betula pendula (silver birch) is especially popular in bonsai.
Birch regularly grows buds or “sprouts” from its base. In nature, these often grow new trunks or separate trees connected by a single root – wood.
As with many deciduous bonsai, we need to prune the tree regularly to improve branching and increase branching.
The general idea is to cut long branches and branches down to two or three leaves. You can start this after the growth has hardened.
Best Types Of Soil For Bonsai Trees
(If you haven’t heard the term before, “hard” leaves are used to describe leaves that have a deeper green color and are coated with a protective wax. This indicates that they are fully formed and producing energy for the tree.)
As mentioned above, one of the biggest problems with birch trees can be broken branches. Understanding how to prune a birch can help you avoid this.
If the birch has a strong growth, its lower branches will fall. In order not to break the branches, it is necessary to maintain the growth of the tree and always keep strong branches on the tree.
If structural pruning is required by cutting off large branches, it should be done in late winter/early spring before leaf growth or in fall when leaves are shed.
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Use a serrated bonsai saw when cutting larger branches, which will heal better. Cover your cut with cut paste to keep air out.
Large branches should not be cut into flat trunks when first cut. All deciduous trees, especially birches
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