Mulberry Tree Bonsai – According to the topic I just bought a mulberry. I believe it’s a 13-year-old Morus alba and for the price (30 euros) I couldn’t resist. have a body of suitable size I know it is a resistant plant and I like it. So I decided to give it a try.
I will deal with those in due course, but for now, I would like to ask your advice on two things that I think are most important right now.
Mulberry Tree Bonsai
According to me Ugly Nebari tree And I personally think it would be much better to plant deeper in the ground. I agree ? This leads to my question. We know that the mulberry is an aggressive rooting plant and the mulberry was not replanted last year. Currently mixed with akadama, slag and coconut fiber, but it doesn’t look very good… Can I plant a new one? It is a leaf and begins to bear fruit. Afraid that it will be slower… What do you think? I also fear that I might have to cut a lot of the roots underground to be able to push the tree and this might affect the tree’s ability to survive.
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Another option is to pour the soil into the pot at the level I need. (near where those ugly roots emerge) Hopefully this will encourage new surface root growth. And I will plant again next year before they sprout. What do you think?
Also, since it is a deciduous tree, it is also a tree that bears fruit in the spring. What time of year is the best time for hard prunes? I don’t mind losing the ability to bear fruit for a year or two. But I want to know when is the best time to fix a critical branching bug. Is it to be done at the same time with the iteration?
In addition to. Any ideas on how to grow mulberries like maples? (Twins from nodes only) or elm (buds from everywhere)? That is, if I cut I should at least take care of the node? Looking at the tree, it looks like there are flowers only at the nodes, but I’m not sure.
I’m sure I have more questions. but just for now I leave you with some pictures. (Sorry for the quality)
Mulberry Plant/tree/bonsai, Furniture & Home Living, Gardening, Plants & Seeds On Carousell
The wood is quite fragile. Be careful when you bend Bigger wounds heal very slowly if ever … cut from the back or bottom of the branch if possible.
Looking at those roots I’m sure you’ll find better roots for Nebari that are lower in the ground. which is the task to move the pot next time
Petegreg said: Leaving the new planting for better times next spring. You are right about the clues. He betrayed the knot. The wood is quite fragile. Be careful when you bend Bigger wounds heal very slowly if ever … cut from the back or bottom of the branch if possible. looking at those roots I’m sure you’ll find better roots for Nebari that are lower in the ground. what is the task to move the pot next time Click to expand…
Ok, is pruning hard? Should I wait for the repot and do both at the same time? if so This year let the plants be healthy, right?
Advice On Mulberry Bonsai
It depends on how difficult it is. But I don’t see a problem with doing this now. We have a season ahead of us.
At least I cut the top. and no better roots below Cut that bottom too!
And not wide enough to lift the old stuff parallel to the “must” ground line.
If the pots are not replaced last year It could be quite nice to have potted or at least full of roots.
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I think you may be able to benefit from being placed at the top root if it is full of root below.
I suspect you can’t completely mock or replicate this and throw a cringe device under that fine root plan.
You can then throw everything in the ground or in a large pot, cover it completely, and hope that the new roots will grow above your edge.
That if the holes in your pillows are close to the shape of your body and strap them together, you may be able to effectively “tighten” the bottom layer.
File:ligustrum Bonsai In A Garden Centre (14 Years Old).jpg
I think the problem with bonsai is because people are afraid or don’t want to have it.
@sorce I see, so your suggestion is to cut both the top and bottom. (or below)
I wonder if I will have to wait until next year to see what the bottom right will be? So I have time to weigh my options.
Consider the above If I follow your advice It took a long time for the head to take the body. What if I just cut the correct branch? This will automatically improve the touch and promote budding throughout the rest of the trunk, right?
Bonsai Mulberry Tree
I am not totally against it. It might even start with lower eyes for you to cut next year.
But I think you can duplicate and hack the top and bottom as you like, I’d say you have a better than 60% chance of doing it.
I think you can always gently pull the plant out of the pot. If the root is packed Look at the roots and put them in a bigger pot without messing with the roots.
Petegreg says: I think you can always gently pull the plant out of the pot. If the root is packed Look at the roots and put in a bigger pot without messing with the roots.Pros: – Familiarize yourself with what is in the soil – More room for growth Click to expand… Sorry, slip pot means which one? Change the pot without disturbing the roots and/or removing the soil? If so, it should be easy.
My First Bonsai Attempt: 2 Year Old Mulberry.
Sorce said: I’m not totally against it. It might even start with lower eyes for you to cut next year. But I think you can duplicate and hack the top and bottom as you like, id say you have a better than 60% chance of doing it IMO… AKA… YFO… (opinion. in your future) lean now! I have a lot of stuff, probably in the next 6 years….I don’t want to see it here! Source Click to expand…
Just a question Do you imply that I should do everything I decided now? I plan to let the tree grow through the season, so it is strong enough to withstand all the work ahead…
Gustavo Martins says: Sorry, but what does slippery pot mean? Change the pot without disturbing the roots and/or removing the soil? If so, it should be easy. Click to expand…
Smashing the top to get rid of those long segments would be a great move for this year…..
Bonsai Mulberry Tree Seeds 25 Seeds Morus Nigra Grow
Sorce said: Keep looking….and inspect the real tree…Looks like any branch in the trunk on the left would look funny…probably going further from the trunk line towards the apex instead of do it back to the right, I think the split to the right looked better! And I have a pet peeve about a trunk that is bent and has branches on one side only…so you need the right branch….but the trunk bends to the right making it hard to sit properly. ! Click to expand…
I’ll try another virt going from the main line to the left to see how it goes.
Sorce says: as for what to do now …. if you want to do it …. but I think you are on a safe path. Smashing the top to get rid of those long segments would be a great move for this year….. If it gives you a good look at the bottom AND you can stretch a new head lower… You can always cut lower. Make this year a testing year…. Click to expand…
Just slip the plant pot. The roots look good, only the thin white roots at the bottom. However, he was bound. Then I put it in a big pot with the acadama.
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I read about plant hormones and physiology. And it affects the pruning. My idea now is to let it grow and next spring. when the eyes start to open I will do all the pruning (top and bottom), buy the pruning top and bottom. I hope to make a balance so as not to throw the tree. (If trimming only the roots) or grow like crazy. (If trimming only the top) Why the spring? Because I want to concentrate as much energy as I can in this growing season. Keep in the roots in autumn and next winter. And when it starts to “live”, bang… I hope the tree heals faster and the wound heals faster. and will have increased power in all subsequent seasons What do you think?
Sorce says: But keep your options open. The trees feel good. Keep listening!
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