Weeping Blue Atlas Cedar Bonsai

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Weeping Blue Atlas Cedar Bonsai – Happy New Year! It’s raining again here in the city of ‘stumps’ and I sit down with a hot coffee to bring you a quick update with two trees I worked on over the holidays and into the new year. The first was a Blue Atlas Cedar that I got from Jim Gremel at the PNBCA convention in Vancouver, Washington in September 2012. We were both dealers at that convention and Jim had some nice trees for sale at his booth. This tree caught my eye from day one and as the event progressed I decided I would try and see if I could come to a deal. It took a couple of trees to get anywhere near the asking price (one harvested Engelmann spruce and one harvested Rock Pine), but I was able to come home with this beautiful piece! And here it is on the bench in an unusual pot for this type of tree:

I’ve never owned one, let alone worked on one, so I took Jim’s brain as he pitched me through the details of these beautiful blues. This is grafted: the root is the Deodora cedar. I don’t remember if Jim did the graft, but the team had no problem; All that is offered is a difference in bark text of three inches above the bottom line. Jim mentioned the need to place the movement in the case early on, as it’s thick and stiff and when you try to bend it, it snaps in two like a carrot and that’s it! So this tree was trained early and lived most of its life in a pot. Part of the reason product training like this pays so little 😉

Weeping Blue Atlas Cedar Bonsai

Weeping Blue Atlas Cedar Bonsai

The next step in my plan for this tree is to move it to a different pot; Something to complement this lovely blue foliage and enhance the cascading style it is in. I found the perfect pot waiting on the shelf, a pot that Mike Hagedorn had made when he was a potter. I brought the potted tree to his study group last winter and he agreed with my choice. Let’s see if you agree:

Cedrus Atlantica Italy Hi Res Stock Photography And Images

The tree was heavily wired when I had it, but the wire bit hard in places and I removed it shortly before transplanting. I used 50% pumice and 50% Akadama for my Portland Rose Society soil and compost mix during the growing season. The tree responded well, sending out 6″ to 8″ shoots at most branch tips. I cut them in September without thinking to take a photo before doing so, sorry. The best I can do is show you what the tree looked like before it started calling last month. This photo was taken at the end of November 2013:

Imagine that the whole tree has buds like the ones near the top of the tree and you can imagine what it looks like when it falls. And the tree is full in the places near the trunk. Always a good sign, but he told me to be careful when wiring not to put the wire in the needle, which is very easy to do when inserting one of these. One other thing rings true about what Jim said about his tendency to act like carrots: this tendency extends to little needles as well. The needles are very sharp and when you add all that up, it takes something to use one of these cables! So after two and a half days this is what I found: … All the characteristics that make this species an interesting bonsai object to implement the highest concept of nature in a small object.

While we like to let Blue Atlas Cedar bonsai dry out between waterings, it’s important to understand that the tree will use a lot of water and therefore dry out faster than most of its counterparts.

This is because the Atlas Blue Cedar bonsai is a tall species with highly variable leaf type, and the amount of water it consumes creates great force, producing vascular tissue and blood in the fall.

Blue Atlas Cedar Bonsai Tree Stock Photo

When it comes to heat, trees can handle over 100°F. If the temperature rises above this threshold, it’s wise to protect them from the sun’s heat. If the days are above 100°F, you can place your tree under 20-30% shade cloth.

Blue Atlas Cedar bonsai is also very cold tolerant, and if the container is too deep, the tree will be more susceptible to cold weather.

Trees grown in a shallow container should not live in temperatures below 20°F. If the tree is grown in a deep container, it can withstand temperatures as low as 15-20°F.

Weeping Blue Atlas Cedar Bonsai

With the exception of the hottest, driest areas at the peak of summer, giving the Atlas cedar bonsai some protection from the hottest sun will help maintain the deep blue color.

Blue Atlas Cedar

When a blue cedar tree gets too much sun, its color can fade and the leaves turn slightly brown. However, this washing and coloring does not harm the health of the tree.

Since the trees have very little soil from which to draw nutrients, proper blue Atlas cedar bonsai care includes occasional fertilizing to replenish the tree’s nutrients.

Any water based fertilizer can be used for this purpose. You must dilute the mixture with 50% water before applying every two weeks.

In the spring, the buds of the Atlas Blue Cedar bonsai begin to swell and accumulate a lot of sugar and starch.

What Kind Of Pot Is Best For Bonsai Tree?

Blue cedar bonsai can be planted each summer if desired, if the tree is strong and healthy.

A hardy after-water transplant can be done in late spring, early summer, mid-summer, or late summer. This is the window of time to carry out the repair work, remove the excess to return the energy to the interior.

Atlas blue cedar will continue to push and has the ability to respond to planting multiple times during the growing season.

Weeping Blue Atlas Cedar Bonsai

Blue Atlas Cedar bonsai can be styled in spring and early fall, but heavy pruning on trees should be done only in early spring.

Japanese White Pine First Steps From Nursery Stock

Since the trees are an elongated species that produce a large amount of nerves throughout the summer, heavy pruning in early fall leaves the trees depleted and slow growing.

Blue Atlas Cedar bonsai are sensitive trees, which means you have a specific window when it returns.

Once these symptoms occur, you have a 7-day window to reduce the amount of tree roots. To successfully create a bonsai root system, new growth needs to appear and the temperature needs to be warm.

Attempting to transplant your Atlas Blue Cedar bonsai anytime before or after the 7-day window will cause problems with the roots’ ability to transport water to the leaves.

Small Trees To Provide Big Landscape Impact

Since it is a coniferous species that needs to dry out between waterings, it is best to use ⅛ to ¼ inch (3 mm to 6 mm) for the undercoat size.

A fungal disease, sirococcus causes blue foliage to turn pink and can completely destroy the tree. If this happens, the tree will recover normally, but the balance of water and oxygen in the root needs to be adjusted.

Proper treatment can be used as a preventative measure on a tree that has suffered damage or complete damage for years in a row. This can encourage the tree to retain its leaves and gain some strength to protect itself against sirococcus next season.

Weeping Blue Atlas Cedar Bonsai

Leaf pile mites are the main pests to watch out for in Atlas Blue Cedar bonsai. Trees are more susceptible to spider mite infestations in dry regions with low humidity.

Tour Of Elandan Gardens

The young, flexible branches of the Atlas Blue Cedar bonsai can be easily grafted. However, the wire must be used carefully to ensure that it does not damage the soft, delicate crust.

This is a valid question as we generally prune species that elongate to distribute energy and filter and control growth during the spring. But the blue atlas cedar is not to be pinched. It is best to prune the tree several times as long as leaf growth occurs during the growing season. Blue Atlas Cedar bonsai responds very well to planting, but pinching should be avoided.

Atlas blue cedar is a high water movement tree, which means a strong fertilizer is ideal for planting techniques. Knowing that we will make the cut several times, we can expand the branching and distribution of energy at the same time. Fertilizing vigorously on healthy, established blue cedars will allow us to boost the growth rate and increase the growth of many leaf branches, provided the pruning process is completed. Fertilizing too heavily will cause the tree to have a thick thin branch causing wire biting.

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